Hi, it's Mary writing this time. Having returned from our autumn UK trip earlier than ever (October 22nd), and realizing we had OVER A MONTH before the start of the ski season, we decided to explore some of the National Parks of Arizona and Utah--and plus get some much needed heat and sunshine before settling down to ice and snow!
But we had to negotiate 4" of snow the morning we left! October 30--now that's just too early!
We had always wanted to see Silverton, an old mining town, and now an off-piste ski area (they have one lift and do not groom!) Had to negotiate very snowy roads though, to get there. Very cute, historic town and we stopped for breakfast in a cafe straight out of "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid."
Next stop was the cliff-top dwelling of Mesa Verde National Park in southwestern Colorado, dating back to 500-1200 AD. These Indians had to work REALLY hard--scraping a living growing squash and corn on the mesa above, whilst living in the cliffs below. A lot of the dwellings have been restored, but using all the material that was there on site. It was really fun to climb down into a "kiva"--an underground ceremonial room.
We next joined up with cycling friends Mike and Joan who have moved to Tucson AZ to be near their daughter who is an organic farmer in the desert. Fascinating to see how organic farming works--hugely labour intensive with grueling hours--we will look on our organic lettuce in a new light now, that's for sure! The young farmers are wholly committed to farming without destroying the soil, or contaminating the water supply--attempting to be in total harmony with nature. (Nature doesn't always appreciate their kindness--this is the remains of a Havelina pig that decimates their crops!!!) Joan and Mike are utterly delightful and fascinating conversationalists and generous hosts, and took us on a bicycle ride in the desert amongst the saguaro cactus--the iconic ones with the arms. A harsh but beautiful environment. Got to see a tarantula crossing the road!!!
Then on to the Grand Canyon. This, a first for Mary, and a second for George--but very long ago. There are no words that can describe the beauty and vastness of the canyon. 5000 feet straight down, 12 miles to the bottom on the Bright Angel trail. We managed to get a last minute cancellation in a bunk house at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon, and set off, in trepidation, with warning signs everywhere! Dropping off the edge of the canyon, we felt like we were descending into the bowels of the earth.
This is an oasis about half way down, called Indian Garden. An Indian actually farmed it until 20 years ago, and although in the heart of the desert, it supports Ponderosa pines and cottonwood trees. It was the only water on the trail once we left the rim of the canyon.
Our first sighting of the Colorado river after 7 hours of hiking downhill!
We left Phantom Ranch at 6.30am the following morning just as the sun was rising over the canyon rim, and started our climb up on the Kaobab Trail. Very quickly learned to ignore the vertigo--simply had no choice but to plod upwards, eyes firmly on the path, trying to ignore the 500' drops on the edge of the trail. But every 100 steps or so brought a new vista, and the intensifying sunlight caused the colors to deepen and change by the minute.
This is the mule train that supplies Phantom Ranch with food, and carries out the mail and the trash each day.
We were very sad to leave the Canyon after three days. We had only scratched the surface of what there was to savor and explore. We did though manage to watch the sun come up as we left en route for the Utah border with Arizona.
This is the Glen Canyon dam on the Colorado River--upriver from the Grand Canyon. Deemed to be a miracle of engineering….I'm sorry, we preferred the hand of Mother Nature.
Stopped for a quick afternoon's hike in Zion National Park--very different park, again. It had huge sandstone mounds--almost like gigantic anthills, plus a beautiful river running through a slot canyon. Could easily have spent several days here, hiking, but ran out of time!
The next park is Bryce Canyon National Park. It is known for its "hoodoos"--pillars of red sandstone, left when the walls of sandstone were broken down by the action of freezing water. We hiked for two days down in this canyon, hardly saw any people at all, and just immersed ourselves in solitude and the brilliant colors--orange,s yellows, pinks and greens. Early settlers tried to ranch here--but it is a smaller version of the Grand Canyon, and drops off precipitously from the rim. As one rancher said, "It's a helluva place to lose a cow!"
Our last stop was Moab Utah, and Arches National Park. Totally different again--a desert environment with huge sandstone walls, called "fins" which through the action of frost, rain and wind--were eroded to form arches. There are some 200 arches in the park. Again we watched a magnificent sunrise at the far end of the Park and then hiked out to a very remote trail in the desert which involved scrambling over sandstone rocks, and over the tops of fins. Pretty scary!!!! Glad those Mendel boots from Braemar had a good grip on the soles!
This is Landscape Arch. One day in 1991, after a heavy rainstorm, hikers heard what sounded like a huge explosion, and most of the inside of the arch collapsed. Now only a delicate looking span of the arch remains.
Here are some of the other arches we saw on the way.
Sadly, left the National Parks after 10 days on the road, but we came away with an awesome regard for the power and beauty of nature, the miracle of survival in the desert of the most wonderful plants and animals--and a huge respect for the National Park ideal--and an enormous desire to go back! We feel so honored and blessed to have experienced nature so intimately--and boy do our souls feel restored!!!!
