Bordeaux to Nimes - week 2

Day 7.  Saturday

Rocamadour to St. Cirq Lapopie.   24.  Av 10 5

Scary to leave the Dordogne--we were heading cross country over VERY minor roads,  with no towns to speak of, and not exactly sure how much climbing there would be.

As it turned out, the climbs were fine--the climb out of the rocamador valley rewarded us over and over again with superb views of the castle from ever changing angles, and the weather was delightful (again!!!!!) and we enjoyed delicious bread and cheese flavoured with noix (walnuts) which we carried along for emergency rations.  we picnicked on that in a lovely old village square in fontanrs la Causse, under a larch tree, very sleepy though--we weren't sure if inhabitants were engrossed in their dejeuner )very serious business) or had all died off centuries ago.  anyway, delightful picnic.

A few more ups and downs, until finally we crossed over to,the river Lot watershed, and had a final 10 kms. To St. Cirq Lapopie---downhill!!!!!  We are camped beside the river Lot in a wonderful campsite--George swam in the river Lot while I snoozed on the bank--we are showered and well fed from the campsite restaurant, and plan to climb up,to,the castle tomorrow morning before  moving on.  It looks another stunner from where we are dining!!!!

Day 8. Sunday.   St Cirque Lapopie to Cajarc 16  av 9.6

Very lazy morning. Back exercises at La Plage on edge of the river, left tent etc drying off the dew, and without luggage cycled up to the ancient village and the 12th century castle remains. Coffee and croissants and a quick tour of the narrow streets,v old church, and chateau perched on a precipitous cliff edge.  Back down to campsite and away at 1 with picnic lunch . Gorgeously quiet road up the south side of the Lot  and easy ride into Cajarc. Hot, though,  30 degrees and very dehydrating cycling.  But we are loving the heat!!!!!  Found the  municipal campsite ( best yet ) close to to town centre. Gourmet dining at Les Allees des Vignes. Spoiling ourselves. 2010 Cahors  Malbec Clos Triguedina.

Day 9. Monday.  Cajarc to Villefranche-Rourergue. 37   Av 9.1

Coffee and croissons in the same friendly cafe that helped us the night before. We couldn't bear to  the Lot valley without cycling further up  the river. Left river at Capdenac, picnic lunch at Causse de Fontane. Villefranche by 3.30 when heavens opened. M and. I lost each other from campsite (where we hastily erected tent at municipal campsite) to tourist office. Had to report that I had oublied ma femme ( meant to say I had perdue ma femme! ). Caused great amusement in office de tourisme where I thought we had agreed to meet. All well ( Mary had started to get cold and wet and had headed back to campsite !) and mediocre Sunday night meal at cafe downtown. Back to campsite and night of advancing slugs following the heavy rain. 

Day 10. Tuesday.    Villefranche up the Aveyron to Roman bridge at La Cayla - 24 miles round trip significant climbing. 

Villefranche to Navaj -  14  av 10.2

Total 42. Av 9.5

Normal service resumed on weather front . Beautiful morning. 10 out of 10.

Left everything at campsite and biked up river - huge climbing ( felt like Ventoux all over again ) up to Bastide L'Eveque and then down 600 feet or so to Roman bridge over the Aveyron and back up again ! 

Back to Villefranche , picnic lunch at campsite , packed up and biked the 14 miles or so  to the ancient town of Najac. Huge ascent , descent ( campsite at Aveyron river crossing ) and then, sans panniers, tent and panniers, up to Najac and a wonderful dinner overlooking the chateau ( another Roussilon experience). Superb meal and Rhone wine - Le Bouquet Des Garrigues from Le Clos du Caillou. 9 out of 10 . Back down to campsite and immaculate services. Acorns falling all night many of them hitting tent. Full moon.

Day 11, Wednesday. Navaj to Valharies ( outside Carmaux ) 34. Av 8.5

Packed up and away in thick valley mist by 8.45. Had to repeat the steep climb of the night before ( but this time heavily laden ) up to town of Najav from the river Aveyron. Had to 

push bikes up v steep incline on cobbles to the Eglise and even higher  to the chateau. Coffee and croissons on main street of Najac and watching mist clear from the river floor. Away by 11. Beautiful high country ride till we reached the river Viaur via spectacular village of Bar on a remarkable spur with views looking steeply down each side. Very steep and long climb out of the river floor. Picnic lunch in vestibule of the Eglise in the uninspiring , but impressive sounding , town of  Mirandol-Bourgnounac  .  Got into town of Carmaux . And got advice from office de tourisme that the only campsite open in the whole area happened to be on our route to the Tarn.

Biked the 8km out there to find campsite shut down. By this time it was 6pm and we were tired! But pitched tent anyway ( no other option ) and found sink and hot water at the neighbouring football stade. Had bought take away salad supper and nice bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape in Carmaux and had delightful and v peaceful evening in splendid isolation in the closed campsite in v fine sunset.  Foot job toilet the only major negative. Tent and sleep like babies at 9.

Tomorrow should reach the Tarn.

Day 12. Valharies to Ambiolet. 24 av 8.5

Another beautiful morning in our "closed" campsite. Leisurely departure after croissons and coffee in a bar/cafe close to campsite. Took a long route to avoid a steep " up and down" and reached Arthes on the Tarn within an hour. Biked up the north side of the river , but missed the road staying absolutely adjacent to the river which was what we planned. Ended up climbing 500 feet or so unnecessarily but then stayed high and had our customary picnic ( with a cold beer ) at a restaurant in Serenac where we met an interesting bunch of hikers from UK and USA. Back down to the Tarn river floor and up river to this picturesque village of Ambiolet. Fabulous campsite right on river, all superb services incl. swimming pool - all for 12 euros - and noone here apart from a German gay couple with a tent arrangement on TOP of their car!

As we got there before 4 we had time to enjoy it to the full incl a beautiful swim. Dinner at Hotel du Pont . Superb. Chateau Vieux Cardinal Lafaurie from Lalande de Pomerol, Libourne ( 42 euros ). Equally superb. Interesting chat with one of the hiker couples - retired vets from Aberdeen . Clearly independence supporters and an educated slant on the issues. The vote a week from today. Looks more likely by the day that at the very least it will be unsatisfactorily close - the worse possible outcome. 

  .

Day 13 Ambiolet to Brusse Le Chateau     24  Av 11.1

V relaxing day. Heavy dew . So we were pleased to leave tent, washed clothes etc to dry while we returned to the Hotel du Pont for petit dejeuner. Then a mile ride up to the priory with impressive views of the amazing horse shoe weep of the Tarn .

Back to campsite buying a hefty sandwich on the way. Away by 12ish and rode up the south side of the Tarn to Villeneuve du Tarn where we did a repeat by kind courtesy of hotel proprietor from whom we bought a couple of beers. On then to Brusse Le Chateau and for the first night of this tour so far are treating ourselves to a night in a logis with dinner thrown in. Getting into wilder country and campsites/restaurants are few and far between. Also have a longish day tomorrow to get to Millau with v little in between. So should be able to get early start.

Tour of the v impressive remains ( partly restored ) of the chateau and good displays etc. just wished we could have understood more. 

Day 14 Brusse Le Chateau to Millau  40 av 8.8

Good breakfast at hotel -and away before 9. Cold for 1st hour. Coffee in little village after steep climb. Only after leaving the old railway route. The track bed and all the tunnels were built in early 1920s but the railway company went bust before any track was ever laid! Quite extraordinary construction projects full completed incl quarter mile long tunnels ( and a mass of them ), 3 or 4 long bridges over the tarn , and of course flat , or mostly flat all the way. A lot of the route converted of course to roads making use of the tunnels and bridges and virtually no traffic. A cyclist's dream.

Picnic lunch on way and then underneath the  famous suspension bridge over the Tarn valley . Campsite in Millau. Friendly German couple right beside us invited us for drink. Dita and Megtig from a small town near Bonn. He a retired nuclear engineer. Their son practicing as an international lawyer in Washington , DC

Dinner in a restaurant in Millau town square underneath huge trees. The sort of town square outdoor eating we had remembered from provence trips of the past. Made friends with a charming Frenchman who owns a bookshop in the town while seeking directions for the next day. Had been married to an English girl whose father was apparently " head of the SAS " in UK. He insisted on taking us to a neighbouring centre ville cafe for a Williams nightcap. Most entertaining discussing ( in English I hasten to add ) French culture the 2 World wars, the welfare state, the amount of smoking in France and many subjects in between. The joys of cycle touring - no driving an a 5 minute bike ride at 11pm back to tent.

14 days out of 14 sunshine and clear blue skies with just one afternoon shower in Villefranche Rourergue on Day 9

Day 15  Millau to St Enimie 37. Av 10.8

Another cracker of a day which was just as well. This was always going to be one of the harder days as we headed up the Gorges du Tarn. Away by 9.15 after tea and croissons at campsite. Coffee and pain de raisin after about 15 km in Le Rozier. Bought the usual pain, fromage and tomate at the epicerie and headed into the Tarn gorge. Quite specatuclar, watched some amazing climbing ( overhangs ) on the way. Our picnic in St Malene and found a beautiful campsite outside Ste Enimie with huge pool ( to myself - Mary sleeping ) and more exquisite lavage facilities. Planning to bike the 2km into town for dinner if I'm able to wake Mary up. 

Heading for Florac and the Cevennes ( back to RLS and Modestine country ) again.. We hope pick up somewhere an English copy of Travels with a Donkey.

No pics for now - didn't seem to work from Ipad last night. Will add when we get back to Colorado