Sunday, October 7, 2012
Day 11 - Carlisle to Casphairn
The Pinegrove Hotel did us proud in producing a cooked breakfast at 7.15 prompt. Keith and I met Jane in the middle of Carlisle at 8 and had an incredibly cold hour's ride in the early morning mist up the A7 and then due west to Gretna. Mist cleared and from then right to the B&B we had provisionally booked at Casphairn , it was as good an Autumn day in Scotland as you're likely to see.
Jane left us in Dumfries to get the train back to Carlisle and another week's work. Keith and I took the relatively busy A75 due west to Crocketford and then over the hill to New Galloway. With my Galloway heritage I felt a little like these hefted hill sheep we passed all along the way. Wonderful nostalgic smells of dairy farms per Walbutt and Balgairn Farm brought it all back. A quite delightful late afternoon ride in the setting sun further up the valley to Casphairn and this little cottage B&B who also provided a good dinner of the sort that's appreciated after 77 miles. Basic but very functional .
Day 10 - Rest day
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| Jane's house in Carlisle |
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| The Knight family |
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| Jane's new car courtesy of Cumbria Health Board |
Keith's train I arrived from Edin at 4 and Jane produced another meal for us at Warwick Road. Good of Keith to make the journey to support me for 3 days.
Legs and backside getting a well earned break - no ill effects though and eager to progress.
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Day 9 Shap to Carlisle
A nice short day this one, but if you were to think the 32 miles from close to the Shap summit to Penrith and then Carlisle is all downhill you'd be sorely disappointed. Stopped for my usual apple, orange and chocolate break just out of Penrith after a particularly heavy shower and got to Carlisle at 11.30. Happened to pass on the way in , the hotel Jane had booked me into and unloaded before continuing straight into town and towards A&E to get leg stitches out. And here's a remarkable story !
Having spoken to Jane and John on tel the night before I got word that my old squash playing buddy of 40 years ago - Pete Bath and his wife Jennifer were back in UK and thought to be in the Penrith area this v morning ! I had immediately emailed Pete to suggest breakfast in Penrith but when he phoned me just after I had passed through Penrrith he said they were about to leave Edin for the Lake district and could.be passing through Carlisle at around lunchtime . He said he'd phone if timings were likely to work. Pete was an orthopedic surgeon in Perth WA , but spent years at the Western in early days - and subsequently Seattle where memorably he came down to Alta Utah when M and I worked there in 1974. Thus the nickname he acquired then of powder Pete - not for his mastery of it but for his valiant attempts!
So call came through from Jennifer just as I was approaching A&E ( anticipating the usual 2 hour plus wait ) saying they were just coming off M6 and heading towards downtown Carlisle . Result - we had a fabulous 2 hour lunch catching up on so much and he made a quick visit to Boots on.my behalf and removed my stitches in the station carpark! Brilliant Pete . Thank you so much. Another great meet up in the most unlikely of places .
Then back to hotel , got my bike to a bike shop where they'll give it a quick service , and Jane arrived from work having just picked up her v smart new work car and collected me from my hotel . And what a lovely evening we had . Very special.
Tomorrow a day OFF the bike and hoping to walk along a stretch of Hadrian's Wall. Keith's train arrives at 4.
Having spoken to Jane and John on tel the night before I got word that my old squash playing buddy of 40 years ago - Pete Bath and his wife Jennifer were back in UK and thought to be in the Penrith area this v morning ! I had immediately emailed Pete to suggest breakfast in Penrith but when he phoned me just after I had passed through Penrrith he said they were about to leave Edin for the Lake district and could.be passing through Carlisle at around lunchtime . He said he'd phone if timings were likely to work. Pete was an orthopedic surgeon in Perth WA , but spent years at the Western in early days - and subsequently Seattle where memorably he came down to Alta Utah when M and I worked there in 1974. Thus the nickname he acquired then of powder Pete - not for his mastery of it but for his valiant attempts!
Then back to hotel , got my bike to a bike shop where they'll give it a quick service , and Jane arrived from work having just picked up her v smart new work car and collected me from my hotel . And what a lovely evening we had . Very special.
Tomorrow a day OFF the bike and hoping to walk along a stretch of Hadrian's Wall. Keith's train arrives at 4.
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Day 8 - Belmont to Shap
Any thoughts I had of reaching Carlisle by tonight were quickly dispelled. Whoever at the Red Dog it was that suggested it was 103 miles to Carlisle clearly had not looked at Pewsey's route. With 80 miles on the odometer I've only reached the top of Shap Hill. The strong SW wind deserted me today. Even slightly north of west such wind as there was, and the climb up from Sedburgh and crossing the M6 on a narrow twisting farm road was as steep as anything encountered to date. Grueling.
Also slowed down by frequent heavy rain showers and a LOT of traffic for first 3 hours.
I promised Mary I wouldn't bike after dark . And true to my word , when a welcome sign pointing to a Best Western hotel right at the summit of Shap at 6.30 came into view I had no hesitation. Such is the price of remaining truthful to your wife. And very comfortable it is too. Tent was an unattractive alternative. But with that and a stove and Tiso bag , it's a great insurance policy.
Carlisle now within easy reach.
Also slowed down by frequent heavy rain showers and a LOT of traffic for first 3 hours.
I promised Mary I wouldn't bike after dark . And true to my word , when a welcome sign pointing to a Best Western hotel right at the summit of Shap at 6.30 came into view I had no hesitation. Such is the price of remaining truthful to your wife. And very comfortable it is too. Tent was an unattractive alternative. But with that and a stove and Tiso bag , it's a great insurance policy.
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| A very welcome sight |
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Day 7 Ellesmere to Belmont
Music to my ears. Breakfast TV forecast at the quite delightful B & B ( dogs lying by the log fire in the breakfast room ) announced blustery conditions with winds from SW . So it proved but with regular sunshine thrown in . Helped me to do 84 miles ending up at 7pm in the Red Dog Hotel in Belmont - north Midlands . Another superb find by pure fluke - or are these places everywhere? And prices seem so reasonable . £56 for B & B and enormous 3 course dinner and coffee with one drink thrown in. So different from our experience of previous years . And v comfortable big room. Good storage for bike. Lashing with rain right now.
Day can be divvied into 4 categories. The 30 odd miles to Chester were more of what I've enjoyed in last 2 days in Wales. Part 2 was the ride through Chester and out to East side via the path beside the heavily used canal connecting Liverpool , Manchester and London for starters . Duncan , didn't you spend a week on one of these barges with the Johnstons years ago? Part 3 was the tricky and heavily trafficked route through the Midlands . Charlie really coming into his element here. A mass of turns , minor roads , major roads , commenting roads , etc , etc. could never have done this with maps without taking at least double the time. A following wind here helped enormously too to get through this trying section. Part 4 once beyond the turn offs for Bolton and Wigan and over the Manchester ship canal led to moor land again with the inevitable climb up to higher elevation. Started to rain now and very dark clouds threatening a thunder storm. Refuge in form of the Red Dog came my way when it looked increasingly likely I was going to have to find a tent site on moor. Phew !
Forecast tomorrow is good , but Friday's is terrible. 102 miles to Carlisle and with same wind if it happens , I'll make a go for it . Then , with luck 2 rest days , Friday on my own while Jane works and Sat with her . Keith arrives Sat evening to join me for 3 days with early start Sun morning.
Day can be divvied into 4 categories. The 30 odd miles to Chester were more of what I've enjoyed in last 2 days in Wales. Part 2 was the ride through Chester and out to East side via the path beside the heavily used canal connecting Liverpool , Manchester and London for starters . Duncan , didn't you spend a week on one of these barges with the Johnstons years ago? Part 3 was the tricky and heavily trafficked route through the Midlands . Charlie really coming into his element here. A mass of turns , minor roads , major roads , commenting roads , etc , etc. could never have done this with maps without taking at least double the time. A following wind here helped enormously too to get through this trying section. Part 4 once beyond the turn offs for Bolton and Wigan and over the Manchester ship canal led to moor land again with the inevitable climb up to higher elevation. Started to rain now and very dark clouds threatening a thunder storm. Refuge in form of the Red Dog came my way when it looked increasingly likely I was going to have to find a tent site on moor. Phew !
Forecast tomorrow is good , but Friday's is terrible. 102 miles to Carlisle and with same wind if it happens , I'll make a go for it . Then , with luck 2 rest days , Friday on my own while Jane works and Sat with her . Keith arrives Sat evening to join me for 3 days with early start Sun morning.
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Day 6 - Kington to Ellesmere
Left the YH in Kington and had a good breakfast at Presteigne, an attractive little town just on the Welsh side of the border . Big excitement at The Coffee Shop. Locals flocked in while I was having breakfast to bid farewell to the owner - a delightful Columbian born lady - who was clearly a highly esteemed member of the community - who was departing this very day back to South America. Big day in the village I was told . Sorry I can't yet load pIcs . But they would paint the scene well. Will do in time.
More hills - surprise , surprise . When in Tennessee or Kentucky and going down a steepish hill I would keep having to remind myself about the hazards that could cause catastrophe in a split second. As an aid to increased cautiom I would keep repeating to myself out loud - snake, dog , etc to keep me at a high level of alertness as to what might be round the next bend . I now hear myself saying instead - white van , white van . On these little mud splattered country roads they should be banned. I've learnt to expect them round every bend. In fact there is only the odd one , but it takes just one.....
In fact a man and leashed dog started crossing the road right in front of me as I came downhill round a sharp bend. I had to brake hard to stop and all he said was - I didn't hear you !!!
68 miles - the last 3 in the rain saw me into the little town of Ellesmere where I've found a charming B & B at Mereside Farm . 3rd night running for a Tiso bag .
Now 30 miles or so South of Chester.
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| Columbian lady 2nd from left |
More hills - surprise , surprise . When in Tennessee or Kentucky and going down a steepish hill I would keep having to remind myself about the hazards that could cause catastrophe in a split second. As an aid to increased cautiom I would keep repeating to myself out loud - snake, dog , etc to keep me at a high level of alertness as to what might be round the next bend . I now hear myself saying instead - white van , white van . On these little mud splattered country roads they should be banned. I've learnt to expect them round every bend. In fact there is only the odd one , but it takes just one.....
In fact a man and leashed dog started crossing the road right in front of me as I came downhill round a sharp bend. I had to brake hard to stop and all he said was - I didn't hear you !!!
68 miles - the last 3 in the rain saw me into the little town of Ellesmere where I've found a charming B & B at Mereside Farm . 3rd night running for a Tiso bag .
Now 30 miles or so South of Chester.
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| Breakfast the following morning at B & B - Ellesmere farm |
Day 5 - Chstow to Kington
Hills and more hills. I remember some trans am blogger in describing a particularly brutal climb puttting it this way - " that hill wouldn't kill you but it could mortally wound". Well the hills of eastern Wales are killers! I survived though and helped by the earlier days in Cornwall and Devon. Time is of course the problem and with only15 - 16 at most - days to complete I've therefore have to move fastish whatever the terrain.
It was a perfect cycIng day though - dry and 73 miles through lush and pretty
I did have time though to stop in the historic town of Monmouth and had a John & Jane Butters style 11am coffee break. Delightful.
Welsh farmland. Charlie performed to standard , the champ that he is. He doesn't speak thank goodness and he does leave you to turn him on when required. To save battery I have him going off automatically after 30 secs. Of course you can turn him straight back on , but you have to take one hand off the handle bars to use him and it is tempting to believe your memory of the last glimpse. That's where things can go wrong - and did today - twice. First I had to retrace a couple of miles , and second having taken a wrong turn , I thought better to carry on and join up 4or 5 miles further on . Mistake! It involved a 1 in 25 cilimb for over a mile and then I got caught behind a crawling tractor with cartloads of tatties all the way back down.
Result - it was close to 7 before I made a 3 mile intentional detour to Kington where I saw on Charlie there was supposed to be a campsite. Even better though a YH which I just happened to pass and another v comfortable one. Very satisfying.
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| An interested specatator |
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| A steep one and only because I missed a vital road junction |
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