Memorial day - Ripley to Milford-May 26---56 miles

We've arrived!!! Very strange feeling to cycle up to the Hometown Suites in Milford, where we stayed the night before the tour began. Unreal feeling after setting off from here--would we ever find it again????? And we have!!!

Had a wonderful stay in Ripley Ohio--a beautiful town with historic houses overlooking the Ohio River. Kentucky just across the water, a state which continued to hold slaves--a mere swim across to Ohio, a free state. We visited the Rankin house at the top of an enormous hill--a pusher upper so steep that when we arrived the curator of the house gave us free admission seeing how sweaty and pooped we were!

Rankin was a 19th C Presbyterian minister of Scots' descent--who was a leading abolitionist and UGRR "conductor". Rankin risked his life and livelihood, as slave bounty hunters were free to come over into Ohio and retrieve slaves (and terrorise any blacks or sympathetic whites they could find) earning a good income in the process. Rankin and his family received fugitive slaves who had made it across the Ohio River, fed, clothed and hid them--and his teenage sons would take the slaves by horseback in the dark of night to the next safe house.

Also we were shown around the Parker house, another UGRR conductor who was a freed black living at the same time--even more dangerous for a black man to be aiding fleeing slaves, as black people at the time had no rights under the law, even in Ohio. Peggy, a descendant of a freed slave, showed us around. A lovely, lively lady!

On Mike and Joan's recommendation, we stopped by and visited with Zip, a well known and loved Ripley resident, on his front porch overlooking the Ohio river. Zip and June regaled us with tales of their biking exploits and tales of life on the river.

Then 54 pleasant traffic-free miles into Milford, arriving at 2.30 pm to meet Murielle and Roland from British Columbia, who have been a day or so behind us the whole journey. They have cylced Cuba, Spain to Scotland and virtually every country in Europe--so we gleaned a lot of tips!

Celebration dinner in Milford at 20Brix Restaurant--wonderful wine and delicious French cooking (our first real break from fried chicken and hamburgers!!!) sitting outside at a table on the street. Now to bed in the positively luxurious Hometown Suites. (Anything would feel luxurious after 14 nights in a tent--but this truly is luxurious!!!)

Tomorrow we cycle in to the Freedom Center in downtown Cincinnati and the Harriet Beecher Stowe house--and then we plan to start in the early evening on the gruelling drive back to Colorado. Home by Thursday night, we hope.

Feeling very chuffed: 1500 miles, no accidents, no mishaps--lots of lovely people met along the way and stunning biking. Feel much inspired to finish the UGRR next year. Meanwhile, enjoying reading more about the slaves and all the brave people who assisted them on their flight to freedom.

photos : 1. outside the Rankin House on Liberty Hill above Ripley, OH , 2. with Peggy outside the John Parker House , Ripley, 3. The well kennt figures of Zip and June outside their Riverside Drive , Ripley home ( acknowledged by a toot of the horn from all the pilots of the continuous stream of river tugs pushing these huge barges) and 5. one such barge. 4. shows Mary passing shades of a bygone era - a good tobacco chew ad.

Owensboro, Ky to Madison , Ind

We've had one memorable day cycling after another - 4 since leaving the Executive Inn on the banks of the Ohio at Owensboro. Exceptionally good value there including
an ` eat all you can ` breakfast for #8 courtesy of the ` omelette man ` It obviously softened our senses a little as we took a wrong turn out of the city adding 5 miles before we even got started on the right road. The wind moved to the west just when we started heading east and we quickly made up time getting to Vastwood County park outside Hawesville by 4 ( 54 odd miles ) . Pitched camp there , but made the mistake of going out to eat ( could have settled for pizza at camp gates ) which involved another 6 miles there and 6 back . Bonus was that the view from our table at the restauraunt high above the Ohio and these enormous tug pushed coal barges entering the locks and heading up river to Louisville and beyond was magnificent . If we'd known our route the next day ( and the only place for breakfast within 30 miles ) was this same restauraunt we'd have settled for pizza willingly.

We left the campsite before 6 the next morning in the knowledge we had 75 miles to do the following day with a lot of hills on the way. Huge breakfast ( at the same Riverview restauraunt !) and then the most gorgeous ride through rolling Kentucky farmland following the Ohio for the next 69 miles. Wind was pretty neutral and with the hills factor , this was thge hardest day yet. But there was no alternative if we were to stick to the Adventure Cycling route as there was nowhere in between either to eat or sleep . We ended up at a service station at Brandenburg contemplating an almost impossibly difficult last 3 miles ( off route as it happened ) on a busy road to the motel we had pre-booked by phone the day before without ascertaining where it was. Rescued by a couple of `good samaritans` who not only drove us to Abe's Country Inn ( grander than it sounds ) but got us fixed up with reasonable quality take away food from a restauraunt a further 2 miles down the same busy road .

The power of recovery on a good night's rest though is a great thing and the fresh dawn brought renewed strength and enthusiasm where we thought neither might ever return. Because of the incredibly heavy traffic right outside our door and a daunting 3 miles plus back into Brandenburg we were sufficiently motivated to get going at day break ( clocks going forward an hour hadn't helped ) and we were seated inside the Brandenburg Permans cafe by 6.20 am ordering another dose of high protein and carbohydrates.

From there to Clarksville via the historic town of Corydon ( 60 odd miles )- site of Indiana's first capitol building and beautiflly maintained , a night at Holiday Inn in Clarksville ( with good views across the Ohio to Louisville, KY ) and then a further 60 mile ride yesterday to Madison , IND and the Clifty State Park where we've pitched our tent for 2 nights . A rest day to day and it's been bliss. Lots to see and a delightful old town right on the banks of the Ohio. A fascinating historical centre and it formed an important ` station` for escaping slaves .

Photos . 1. our lovely camping spot at Vastood Country Park, Hawesville, KY. 2. site of Lincoln's crossing over to Indiana. 3 site of our crossing over into Indiana. 4 view of Louisville, KY from our motel in Clarksville , IND ( extraordinarily containing an enormous and thriving shipbuilding yard ) and 5. Mary and Laura the owner of the laundramat in Madison who relieved us of just about everything we possessed while we enjoyed this gem of an historic town and refused to receive any payment.

Henderson to Owensboro

The rest day in Henderson was well timed . It rained all day . Apart from valuable time in library , we visited the impressive Audobon , an early 19th century naturalist and bird painter ( who interstingly used an Edinburgh engraver ) museum and exhibition. The curator there Jackie in an incrdibly generous gesture offered to rescue us from our very wet campsite that evening and drive us across the river ( and back again at end of evening ) into Indiana for dinner at her house . She and Wayne gave us a most wonderful barbecue dinner with masses of fresh vegetables and much else. Pictured are her husband Wayne , brother Gib and his girlfriend Theresa and his daughter Hannah. Jackie also produced a beautiful illustrated old edition of Burns poems which I was pleased to try to read ( and interpret ) . A very jolly evening . What a wonderful act of kindness - totally spontaneous and we must have looked like a couple of vagrants - and what a lovely family .

It finally stopped raining late that night and we made an early start from the damp Audobon state park campsite for Owensboro. Made it there by lunch time ,but by the time we found a bike shop and got new tyre for Mary's bike , we decided to remain in Owensboro at motel . A vitally important part of each day for both of us is our back & yoga exercises. See superb illustration of Mary's `downward dog ` outside motel room on banks of the Ohio looking across to Indiana on a lovely sunny evening.

Finally a little on signs - a couple amused me . The entering of `police jurisdiction ` in Mississippi made we wonder what we had just come out of ! The ` no nothing ` bit may have been in or out of ` jurisdiction` . I'm not sure .

Waverly, TN to Henderson , KY

3 fabulous days cycling. V quiet roads - indeed it seemed we could go almost an entire morning without a car passing us in either direction. (Dogs were challenging--we cope no bother with one or two, but then they started calling their pals, and at one time we stopped and faced off 5 or 6 at once, all howling for blood! Mary's
bit.)

Mileages on the 3 days were 56, 53 and 61 averaging between 9 and 11 mph. A fair few `testing` hills , but the legs are much stronger and only a few were a major struggle and even those only of 300 ft or so of vertical height. (Tally so far: Mary's pusher uppers: 3. George's: 1) Starting early makes a huge difference , but then we tend to disagree on what sort of a stop to have at 10/11 am. I favour the traditional American full breakfast. M favours holding out longer for fried chicken, cornbread and okra(--which she is rarely allowed to have!Mary again)

Ist day was Land between the Lakes - 45 or so mile stretch of park land between the dammed Tennesse and Cumberland rivers. Enjoyed bald eagles, buffalo , the Homefarm exhibition - superb displays of what farming in mid 19th century Kentucky was like. (Really enjoyed the traditional breeds of livestock, especially the Maran hens and chicks blissfully pecking in the dirt. Funny to see USA cockerels behave the same as the UK ones--calling over their hens when a particularly juicy worm is found.) Then to campsite in Grand Rivers.

Next day was hard with an unhelpful wind and a fair slog to the ferry across the Ohio at Cave- in - Rock , Illinois. (Mary pooped and in foul humour, so) we stayed there in a v comfortable cabin looking across the Ohio and at an approaching thunderstorm. V satisfying. A good restauraunt only minutes away. (Mary now very happy again....)

Then an early start again , and deciding to go go for Henderson , KY if any sort of a good wind. We got it and fortified by good breakfast ( albeit spoilt by my having over inflated M's back tyre while she was ordering and the metal valve snapping in the middle - to the rescue our spare inner tube ! ), we made it to Henderson and to the campsite in the Audubon State park at far end of town. Small choice of places to eat . Chose ` The Golden Coral `. As much as you could eat - and good quality - for $9.99, and $9.28 for over 60 year olds - no ID required which disappointed me . Beautifully cooked steak and a choice of pies to die for ! (Felt a little bit like being amongst pigs at a feeding trough--of course we loved it too...)

Today in Library in Henderson , enjoying a rest day. This afternoon to the Audubon exhibition. Tomorrow to Owensboro and bike shope to get new spare inner tube for M's bike, and then continue up the Ohio. About 1000 miles done and maybe another 400 to go . Feeling cautiously optimistic. But anything can happen ... as we know so well . We'll be thinking of Meghan & Dennis as they head off for their cycling tour to Burgundy with the Butters` this w/e. Take care !

No photos this time . Left the lead in tent . Will add next time.

Now had chance to add photos from this stretch of the route. 1. crossing the Kentucky stateline from Tennessee. 2.always stop for horses and dogs if we can. These were particularly friendly. 3. the ferry across the Ohio into Cave - in - Rock , Illinois . 4. The cave itself - pirates lived here in days of old and raided river traffic on regular basis. 5 Mary, pooped, in lovely cabin on banks of Ohio river. V fortunate to get it without reservation . Just turned up - fully booked for rest of week we gathered. Otherwise it was going to be a wet night in tent.

Fulton MS to Waverly TN

4 brilliant days cycling since we left Fulton. Quiet roads, stunning scenery, lots of dogs ( but our policy of always stopping and `talking ` to them when what they really want to do is chase has paid dividends )and again lovely people.

First night at Tishomingo State Park and then a long way to Shiloh Military national park ( scene of the famous Civil War battle on the banks of the Tennessee river . Hugely moving . Another case it seems to me of `lions led by donkeys`. A poor night in motel in Crump and a very wet couple of hours cycling the following morning on way to Mousetail State park . Major find was a good restauraunt 5 miles or so before campsite. Campsite ( which we had to ourselves )was up a very steep hill - a walker - upper , but well worth the effort. An early start next morning and again , a superb little cafe just beyond Pineview to stoke up with protein for a longish , and quite hilly section to Waverly. Our friend Will Jones ( previous asst minister at st Michaels, Linlithgow , drove over with his daughter Grace from Brownsville where he is a minister , and joined us for dinner.

Today a rest day . Disappointingly the public library is shut , but this kind motel owneer at Imperial Lodge is allowing me to update blog and catch up on emails. - see pic.

Tomorrow we'll aim for 6.30 start - horrendous rain / thunder storm forecast for tonight - and hope to reach Dover. we follow the Tennesse all the way down to where it joins the Ohio passing Land between the Lakes. Another hilly section ahead , but we feel strong and fingers crossed.....

Thanks to all who are giving suppport and encouragement . Keep the comments coming in. It all helps.

Hello from Mary!

Most unlike me to have nothing to say--but George tires me out so much each day, I find the words as drained from my brain as energy is from my body. However, today's been a short day, and I'm well-fed on a chocolate brownie sundae from a delightful restaurant in Fulton Miss., having only cycled 24 miles--so getting a chance to add my two-bits!!!!

Have been most pleasantly surprised by this route--so different from last year where stops were so far apart; eating hugely problematic; and the people friendly enough, but not exceptionally so. Just the opposite now. The people blow your mind with their helpfulness, friendliness and hospitality; little towns occurring every 10 miles or so (just like in France!)--and the eating (having vowed not to to do fast food) surprisingly good. One of the best meals was in a gas station in Nanafalia Alabama, where tables were set up amongst the gaskets, fan belts and batteries, and we had freshly fried chicken, collard greens, fresh baked corn bread and black-eyed peas. We resorted,literally, to licking the bones clean--I've never had food that tasted so delicious!

And the scenery is just gorgeous. Despite the attempts of us humans at every available opportunity to destroy it in the name of progress, nature just comes back and persists. The towering long leafed pines, the live oaks bedecked with Spanish moss, the honeysuckle in bloom with its perfume blowing on the breeze as we pass--fields of cattle standing in the shade, the spreading branches of an enormous oak tree. I could go on forever!

Just some final philosophical thoughts about this manner of travelling--every uphill (tough bit) has a downhill (easy bit) (surprise! surprise!) and those downhills wouldn't be nearly so nice without that hell of a slog first. And then speed--from whence our modern day obsession with speed? We see so many drivers who gun their engines to zoom by us, so they can wait at the same traffic light as us--or sit that little bit longer in the Dairy Queen packing in the calories they don't need. And then the obesity epidemic which appear to be wiping out the lovely people of this part of the world. (It is a common occurrence for us to hear that a shopkeeper, or restaurant owner mentioned in last year's cycling journals has passed away--heart attack, etc.) Why don't more people get out of their cars and onto their bikes? They might discover that it is actually fun, once you get over the initial stages of being puffed out and having a sore bum! But the best things in life are like that--they come at a price!

Enough from me!!! The kids called these my Jerry Springer moments. Apologies. Plus ca change.....

Will probably be silenced now for a while. Some big hills and long days ahead!

Mary

Aliceville to Fulton

State line from Alabama to Mississippi safely crossed and we had a relatively easy day and a delightful ride up the side of the Tenn-Tom waterway via Aberdeen - thus named `cos apparently the town was founded by Robert Gordon, the famous Aberdonian with whom we're familiar in Scotland - to Amory. Another Best Western in Amory and left there this morning ( Monday ) for a lovely 25 mile ride on a minor road to Fulton . A tiny, but charming, downtown area , but like so many small American towns an ever increasing sprawl of ` chains `, service stations, etc, on the outskirts. A delicious lunch in a small cafe opened a week ago and haircut in a barber shop ( probably opened a century ago ).

On the road from Columbus to West Point we were caught up by a couple on a tandem travelling from Mobile to Canada ( the captain & the vice - admiral ! ) whom we thought were ahead of us. We enjoyed greatly spending time with them at a good cafe in West Point ( good home made cooked buffet lunch and and as much as you can eat for $7.59 ! ) and comparing notes . Joan & Ilkka - we wish you well. See you in Tennessee or Kentucky or before. They were heading on a diversion to Tupelo ( birthplace of Elvis ) - otherwise we'd have no chance of seeing them again.

Another couple doing the UGRR and just ahead of us have an amusing blog and describe much better than I can do, the joys , frustrations , dissapointments , etc of cycle touring. Makes interesting reading. http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=3Tzut&doc_id=3495&v=AC. Just google `retired couple on a bike` and you get the link instantly . Also gives a very much better idea of our route and many of the experiences we are having , but don't have the energy - or skills - to recount. Unfortunately they're now too far ahead of us for us to stand any chance of catching up with them.


Off now to camp site on Tenn-Tom waterway at edge of Fulton and then an early start tomorrow to tackle the very much hillier country leading to the Tishomingo State Park and Shilo National Military Park. We had hoped there might be a bike shop here to help us make much needed adjustments to the gearing mechanism on both our bikes . Unfortunately the proprietor died a few months ago. We'll be forced therefore to apply our very limited skills to this problem at campsite this afternoon. Hope to goodness I don't make the problems worse. Otherwise we'll have to commandeer a pick-up truck to transport bikes to Tupelo - 20 miles west.

Very little ahead by way of towns , villages etc until we get into Tennessee. Last blog entry for a bit . Stick with us though !

Still hoping Mary will add her twopence worth shortly . Will make good reading when she does. She's been a true soldier throughout . Just keeps powering away - and never ( hardly ever ) complains - but there's not much left in the tank at the end of the day for creative writing ! The pity is she'd do it so much better than I can.

Linden to Aliceville

What a day we had yesterday . A fair following wind and we covered 85 miles - the most we've ever done in a day.

The night before we were in Linden where the owner of Linden Inn did us numerous kindnesses including lending us his car to get us to the library - and our emails - just before it closed. Simply handed me his keys within minutes of seeing me for the first time.

Left there before 7 and in anticipation of impending ` weather ` - a severe storm apparently - we thought if we could get a decent meal in Epes we might make it the whole way to Aliceville before the storm broke. Horror of horrors the only resaturaunt in Epes , and realistically the only chance of a meal anywhere - had closed a few months ago . To our rescue came Becky Robertson , a local of Epes who found us sitting forlornly outside the post office and drove us 10 miles to Livingston where we took in the necessary restorative calories while our bikes were protected digently by the Epes postmistress ! See pics .. Thank you Becky for saving us from spending a wet night in a tent . We'd never have made it to Aliceville without you .

Now in Aliceville - home to 4000 German POW's in World War 2 . They were pretty comfortable from all accounts . If the hospitality we have received in this lovely part of the world is anything to go by , I can believe it .

The joys of bike touring for us have been meeting just wonderful people along the way .

Off now to Columbus . Into Mississippi - major milestone. Then north towards the Tennessee border. NW wind forecast though - bad news.

highs & lows - the UGRR

Now Thursday May 1st and we've just completed our 5th day - 60 miles from the campsite beside the Tombigbee River outside Coffeeville , AL . And what a campsite it was.

Today considerable wind assistance and nothing like the truck ( or any ) traffic of yesterday. That was a hard day ( 58 miles ) and on a pretty busy logging truck route. Made good time , though, averaging around 10mph and a lovely 2 hour plus stop in Grove Hill for lunch .

Lots of highs and lows - as illustrated by the 2 photos of Mary resting - one at Atlanta Greyound terminal at 2 am and the other beside a lovely stretch of road between Coffeeville & Linden .

Next entry hopefully from Aliceville AL.